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Amon
12-03-2016, 08:26 PM
The title clearly explains the purpose of this post, and i believe and hope the moderators will be kind enough to allow me to use this post as a draft journal of the process. Another reason i chose to keep the journal here is that, so experienced practitioners may also offer their cookies as to how to proceed, what could and may be done better etc. so feel free to point out mistakes and the like.Lets begin:

General Dets: The matter worked upon is some dried Rosemary leaves purchased from a "local" shop that sells things of similar nature. Most,if not all, tools and vessels used in this "course" are common items that can be found in any room whose owner would like to call a kitchen.

P.S. (I am beginning the process in another way, that is, going straight for the salts first and work with the Spirit and Soul later)


Step 1 - Calcination

As a calcination pot, a silicone cup used for making cakes and brownies has been used.

https://s14.postimg.org/4tr3rnl01/Pot.jpg

A bunch of Rosemary leaves have been placed within it, some ethanol from a drugstore (not de-natured) added to them and ignited under the fume hood. After the smoke ceased, the pot was placed on top of a gas burner and thus the calcination began. More fumes arose soon after the common fire manifested and pationately licked the cheeks of the cup and after a relatively short amount of time (5-15 minutes) the salts were a nice grey~white color. Some more ethanol added and ignited and again recalcined (this last treatment was performed twice more not because of practical reasons but merely because i enjoyed watching the flames).
I should add here that the color of the cup also began to change after some time from black to white as well which could possibly be something that may render the salts useless (should there be some kind of reaction) .

https://s12.postimg.org/ri8h98god/Calcined_Salt.jpg

Now, the salts are put aside (top of the pot covered) and i begin making some distilled water (the usual double boiler a.k.a. Bain Marie) and the distilled water was made to pass through a coffee filters 4 times just in case any dust or other environmental contaminant fell into it.

Now salts and distilled water have been placed within a rather small jar ( that has been thorougly dried using both the weak winter Sun and a dry towel), the lid has been put on top (hermetically) and i am currently debating with my self wether i should put it directly into the fridge or leave it out for some time. My reasoning here is that it should be left out in tranquility so that the non water soluble salts settle down, then filtered (through a coffee filter or gauze) and then placed in the fridge in hopes the water-soluble salts will crystalize and lay on the bottom to be gathered by softly evaporating the water within.

Salt- Water Images
https://s14.postimg.org/6oby1996p/Distilled_Water_C_S_1.jpg
https://s14.postimg.org/r6jqag54h/Distilled_Water_C_S_2.jpg
https://s15.postimg.org/4yye77o4r/Distilled_Water_C_S_3.jpg
https://s15.postimg.org/onrlr164r/Distilled_Water_C_S_4.jpg

Kiorionis
12-03-2016, 09:47 PM
hope the moderators will be kind enough to allow me to use this post as a draft journal of the process.

You're more than welcome.

I like that you're starting the salts first. One trick I learned about plant salts is that you can break them "open" pretty well by pouring the hot salts into cold water. The smaller the pieces in solution, the more dross precipitates out (in theory).

But it's looking good!

elixirmixer
12-04-2016, 02:41 AM
I dislike that you are starting with the salts, it's a waste of those precious essential oils you had in there.

The salts are very reactive, they could very well damage your crockery.

I like the suggestion of throwing them into cold water.. I've always just used room temp... Then boil the water, that will help too.

Also if you intend to combine the three essentials in this elixir, do so slowly and prayerfully, if you just throw it all in together at once it won't work. Also, keep water out of your final product PERIOD. Water will stuff it up, won't let it combine and make it go cloudy.

I'm interested to see your final product. Good luck.

Kiorionis
12-04-2016, 03:34 AM
But water is life!

?

elixirmixer
12-04-2016, 05:44 AM
I believe the hydroscopic nature of alcohol is such that it will prefer to link with H2O rather than dissolve the salts. At least; that's what I have experienced.. I would love to be proven wrong and find a way to incorporate water in my Elixirs.

.... Any hints Kior?

I went to the long winded process of making a rosemary stone (fail). I did not patiently imbibe my salts, I simply added the oils and then drowned it all in ethanol. A extremely disappointing non-combination of essentials was very frustrating. I tried adding water, thinking that it would dissolve the salts and act like a catalysing agent to attach to the ethanol. This did not go according to plan, as it instead made a cloudy combination of water, ethanol and essential oils, with the salts remaining at the bottom.

Mind you; this liquid did cure me of the flu three times

Kiorionis
12-04-2016, 07:39 AM
I believe the hydroscopic nature of alcohol is such that it will prefer to link with H2O rather than dissolve the salts.

True, but calcined potash is useful for other things as well. It depends on what you're going for.

Amon
12-05-2016, 12:49 PM
UPDATE: 5/12/16

I have filtered the saltwater and the filtered water retains its foggy appearance.

https://s16.postimg.org/7ikugf6lh/DSC_0196.jpg

I guess thats a good sign indicating the water soluble salts have passed through the filter. Then i proceeded to evaporate the water in a metallic coffee pot. Apparently i kinda rushed this evaporation, seeing as how i did it on an open gas burner flame and the water began to boil and when the entirety of it had evaporated, there remained some black/yellow stains on the bottom of the pot which then i washed off by simply pouring some common water.

AFTER THE EVAPORATION https://s14.postimg.org/w51u7puo1/DSC_0198.jpg

AFTER THE WASHING https://s11.postimg.org/5ps81v7gj/DSC_0199.jpg



I think this step requires a more delicate,gentle evaporation which is why i will redo the calcination process with a greater quantity of plant material and this time the evaporation will be done in a sandbath (will update again as soon as i go to the beach to gather some sand) and using a custom made clay vessel.

QUESTION: The clay i am gonna use is gonna be polymer clay that requires heating in a furnace to become hardened, however, i am not sure if it will be ideal to place water in, in case the water reacts with it (or the salts for that matter). Will try both the clay vessel and a round bottom boiling flask 500ml.

thoth
12-05-2016, 11:05 PM
Metal may not be such a good idea, as it does react with salts. Glass would be much better.

It looks like you may have burnt your salts.
I find the best way to evaporate is to have your dish of water & its soluble salts, in as dry a room as possible - not so much hot, but dry. I see it like sucking the moisture away very gradually.

How are you planning on getting your oil of Rosemary ?

elixirmixer
12-06-2016, 12:00 AM
Boiling flask is always preferable.

How can you burn calcined salts? They are already very very burnt. From my experience, rosemary salts need a couple of solve and coagula, it is MUCH better to slowly evaporate , reason being is because I can hardly see any salt at all in those pictures, most likely to the salts having been volatized and fled from your flask, your salts should at least be a nice citrine colour before you begin, but even further purification can lead to the Ms Snow White, the ideal lady to be courting

zoas23
12-07-2016, 02:13 AM
UPDATE: 5/12/16QUESTION: The clay i am gonna use is gonna be polymer clay that requires heating in a furnace to become hardened, however, i am not sure if it will be ideal to place water in, in case the water reacts with it (or the salts for that matter). Will try both the clay vessel and a round bottom boiling flask 500ml.

Why are you using the weirdest materials possible???

A Silicone Cup to calcinate? Where did that idea come from? I won't get into the "calcination by fire" vs. "Philosophical calcination" thing... but get yourself a nice huge porcelain capsule... they are very cheap.

Using a Polymer Clay doesn't sound like a good idea either. You can use a normal pyrex dish that you will probably find at the supermarket... a round bottom flask is not an amazing idea (I assume you are talking about a "balloon shaped vessel")... The salts, once the water is gone stick to the glass and if you want to separate them from the glass you will get insane by trying to remove them from a balloon shaped vessel (unless you are going to use that vessel and add the other components there without removing the salts and simply let them dissolve).

Amon
12-10-2016, 01:22 AM
UPDATE 10/12/16

I have calcined a greater amount of leaves this time (in a post-whitened silicon pot), mixed the salts(while warm) with distilled water and sealed the jar. After some time, with the aid of a plastic funnel and some coffeee filter, the separation of water from non water soluble salts took place. Then i used some spare pH measuring paper i have laying around just to prove to myself that the crystal clear liquid i had after the filtration wasn't just common water and voila!

https://s17.postimg.org/3keexcf27/Calcined_Salt_Solution_p_H_measurement_1.jpg

Then, i took care of the evaporation setting. Went to the beach but instead of sand i got some gravel instead (reason is, i forgot that the beach near my area has no sand).

https://s28.postimg.org/fj0yxoxm5/Mediator_Used_substituting_sand.jpg

Washed and placed it in a saucepan that was lying on top of a hot plate, and drove off the excess water from the washing.

The clear liquid was placed on a wide fireproof porcelain dish that i got from the super market.

https://s23.postimg.org/a8tkizjqz/Fireproof_wide_porcelain_dish.jpg

The dish was then placed on top of the gravel and the strength of the hot plate set to 1 (the lowest of the 9)

After some time i noticed something forming on top and below the water, which i mistook for the salts due to poor lighting, that turned out to be oxygen bubbles. Regarding the use of the hot plate here, i have to add that i never kept it on all the time but kept switching it on for 5-7 minutes and then off for about 20-25 minutes so as to keep the evaporation gentle. After a bunch of hours, the water was finally gone and i was left with this.

https://s30.postimg.org/5lcwgg8hd/After_Evaporation_Half_scraped_salts.jpg

I want to thank Zoas23 now because if it wasn't for his warning about the salts sticking at the bottom, i would have done the evaporation on the round vessel and the whole process would have been pretty much a waste. I scrapped off the salts using a wooden chopstick and got a "decent" amount of white powder.

https://s29.postimg.org/ofcwjz6mf/Concentrated_Salts.jpg

After some more salt scrapping i just gave up on it and stored all that i managed to gather, in a small glass jar. The porcelain dish was afterwards washed and dried and appears to be intact by the salts.

https://s17.postimg.org/u9z24k31b/Stored_Salts_1.jpg

Next step is getting another porcelain dish strong enough to resist a naked fire and firing the stored salts and maybe reperfoming the solution,filtration,evaporation steps.

Not going to bother with getting the Mercury out of the plant since the pharmacy offers ethyl alcohol 95 grade pure and from what my sources have told me its pretty much the same as the one used in making alcohol beverages so its safe for consumption. However, regarding the Sulphur, i will either do the Enfleurage technique (on a smaller scale) or will simply draw it off with the Mercury and use these 2 combined. ( Enfleurage is a bit unecessary but hey, its something new to me and its always fun to try new things)

Kiorionis
12-10-2016, 01:39 AM
and maybe reperfoming the solution,filtration,evaporation steps.



I've found that in order to completely purify the salts, a number of rotations of the "calcine, solution, precipitation, filtration, evaporation" are necessary.

I usually set up a charcoal fire in the evening and calcine the salts till morning. I see no point in going longer than I or 9 hours. Then I throw them straight from the fire into solution and "circulate" in the sun until the precipitation settles before evaporating or distilling off the water (sometimes I distill the solution till the beginning of crystallization because I've added too much water in the previous step...)

Doing this four or five times I've found is more efficient and interactive than calcining something for three weeks...

Plus it gives you multiple chances to stand over the salts and stare at them lol.

Axismundi000
12-10-2016, 10:15 AM
I appreciate the detail of method and photo's. The salts you show seem now to me are white and so ready for Cohobation. This idea of opening the salts by putting the still hot salts into cold water is similar to the Magisterie approach except with Maigisterie the hot salts are put into cold essential oil of the same plant rather than water.

Amon
12-10-2016, 11:51 AM
Metal may not be such a good idea, as it does react with salts. Glass would be much better.

It looks like you may have burnt your salts.
I find the best way to evaporate is to have your dish of water & its soluble salts, in as dry a room as possible - not so much hot, but dry. I see it like sucking the moisture away very gradually.

How are you planning on getting your oil of Rosemary ?

Currently i have no setup that will allow me to separate the oil on its own. I will draw it off with the Mercury and use these 2 combined or i will try the Enfeurage technique and draw the oils off using animal fat. Unless a new idea pops up, thats my only courses of action.

Axismundi000
12-10-2016, 12:35 PM
A basic way is to put the herb in water then distill across water. When the plant matter is left behind but still a little moist stop. Put distilled liquid in a separatory funnel the oil will settle above or below the water. Draw off oil and maybe keep water for calcinate-leach cycle.

Amon
12-10-2016, 02:26 PM
A basic way is to put the herb in water then distill across water. When the plant matter is left behind but still a little moist stop. Put distilled liquid in a separatory funnel the oil will settle above or below the water. Draw off oil and maybe keep water for calcinate-leach cycle.

That would be optimal but i have no such equipment (separatory funnels and the like) all i had was a basic distillation kit (condenser etc.) but my cat decided to just throw the box off the chair and broke the condenser. But as i already said, i am trying to pull this off using simple kitchen stuff. Can i use alcohol to draw off the oils and then evaporate the alcohol off?

Kiorionis
12-10-2016, 04:15 PM
Can i use alcohol to draw off the oils and then evaporate the alcohol off?

Yes, but you might lose some of the volatile oils. And if the heat is too high during evaporation, some of the phytochemical compounds might break down.

Axismundi000
12-10-2016, 06:03 PM
You do really need to distil off so get another condenser from eBay or such. I see both condenser (24/40) and funnel on eBay for about 30 GBP total which is not huge. Equipment will always break. There are other ways to work spiritually, lab Alchemy requires lab gear.

Edit: so if you are new to all this make sure the joints of your distillation train are the same or they won't fit e.g. Replacement Liebig 24/40 if rest of parts also 24/40, check sizes. Also vacuum grease needed to for joints.

elixirmixer
01-01-2017, 10:14 PM
Robert Bartlett shares many great tips on how to distill without having lab gear.

Some of my most successful and best elixirs, have been usin the kitchen process. It can be very effective (ie: using alcohols to extract)

I think that distilling the essential oils is most important when performing the Minor Opus.

But do consider, that the volatilisation of potassium Carbonate (your salts) is of the greatest benefit, and truly, it is IMO, the main goal in plant alchemy. Which is the process that axis has hinted to you by tellin you to drop your salts in essential oil. (I feel so Harry potter an the goblet of fire right now) (picturing Harry with his golden egg that he doesn't know how to open lol)

Amon
01-10-2017, 02:15 PM
UPDATE 10/1/17

Happy new year to all. I just finished my draft distillation setup and it i am currently running a test course in distilling tap water, which is then gonna be used to distill the essential oils of the plants. So, here is the distillation train.

In a plastic bucket bought at a local store, i opened 2 holes using a heated screwdriver (almost diametrically opposed and at different heights). Also bought 1 meter of copper tube (10 mm diameter) and passed it through the holes in the bucket. Used some glue (for plastics, metals, wood etc.) to close up the gaps.

https://s27.postimg.org/5gy02ienn/DSC_0244.jpg

Now prior to driving the tube through the holes and glueing it, i passed it through a cork seal (which i got from a glass jar that looks like this https://s28.postimg.org/uepv0v2d9/tear_drop_glass_bottles_with_cork_top_8_oz_case.jp g )

Luckily, the cork seems to fit ALMOST perfectly my boiling flask (round bottom 500mL). Anyway, using a nail and a hammer i punched a hole in the cork and then drove one end of the copper pipe through. Some of the cork though got inside the pipe and i was unable to remove it.

The end result is that :
https://s24.postimg.org/ao14ptshh/DSC_0243.jpg

I took a look at our tool box and found a nut lying in there. I heated it up and drove it through the bucket, at around the same height as the bottom hole for the tube. Used the heated screwdriver to clear the plastic that was blocking the inside of the ring.

https://s24.postimg.org/r57zt35hh/image.jpg

Drove through the nut a plastic tube and used the above mentioned glue to close the gaps and prevent leaks. Then i used the front valve of a "Party Wine" box.
https://s30.postimg.org/pq1u2o0mp/12542_offer_alternative.jpg

I cut it out, and connected its exit (the part from which the wine flows) to the outside part of the hanging plastic tube.Glued it in place and thats now my water removing system.
https://s23.postimg.org/byaniyy2j/DSC_0241.jpg

As a last touch, i put some tinfoil paper around the copper tube at the upper bucket hole (because during the first distillation trial, the copper heated up and began to evaporate the glue and the plastic) so as to the prevent what i just described in the parenthesis.

Now,on a gas burner i mounted a cat food tray (supposed to be stainless steel) filled it with sand, placed the boiling flask on top, stack the cork with the copper pipe on top of it, adjusted the height of the bucket accordingly and wrapped the mouth of the flask with plastic wrap (the thing you use to wrap foods). Obviously the cork allows some vapors through and i hope to minimize them with that (for now). Filled the bucket with cold water and lighted the burner.

https://s24.postimg.org/7e5xq0yvp/DSC_0245.jpg

During this run(the distillation of water on the above image) some vapors begin to rise from within the bucket as well, which is a result of the melting plastic that had remained on the copper pipe during the bucket's treatment with the heated screwdriver. In short, its not supposed to appear again. Using the same setup i will then distill the essential oils. (PROVIDED NO MORE TROUBLE ARISES)

elixirmixer
01-10-2017, 10:13 PM
Man, you really should have asked some questions about this set-up before you built it I think.

You have what looks to me about 300-400mm of copper tubing in your bucket. Not enough. Steam will go everywhere and you will lose the best most volitale parts of your essential oil.

What you need to do here, is take out that copper pipe, get more like 3 - 4 meters of pipe and coil it up in the bucket. You need to get as much 'cooling' surface as you can get.

This setup will not be complete until there are NO VAPOURS coming out of the end of that copper pipe. VAPOUR MEANS YOUR LOSING THE BEST STUFF.

Appart from that, I am loving your hard-core, patient commitment to this experiment. Reminds me of myself :D ;)

zoas23
01-10-2017, 11:13 PM
1- I remember having read that COPPER isn't a GREAT idea when it comes to alembics (yes, I know that the "classical" alembic was made of copper) and that SOME essential oils have weird reactions with the copper, and if I am not wrong, Rosemary was one of them [I can't find the source of such thing, it is something I've read whilst investigating alembics a long time ago... my memory can be wrong, but some essential oils were NOT suggested].

The IDEAL would be a normal condenser, but if it's too expensive, you can use a simple glass tube (the lab suppliers always sell them, they should be easy to get in your area).

2- I NEVER got anything with the process you are using.... but steam distillation does the trick. When it comes to steam distillation, there are "cheap" and "expensive" ways to do it...

The figure 12 and the item #28 (and the following ones) explain how to do it in the "cheap" way.:

http://www.books-about-california.com/Pages/Experimental_Organic_Chemistry/Ex_Organic_Chem_Chap_01.html

The "expensive" way is this one:

http://www.heartmagic.com/Newsteamdistiller.jpg

(expensive only because it involves some relatively expensive glasses)

I didn't have much luck with the cheap way, but I know it works.

As to gain practice, you can use cloves ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clove )... simply because they are VERY generous when it comes to essential oils (you get an absurd amount in comparison with other plants).

Schmuldvich
01-10-2017, 11:45 PM
Have you any experience with the "expensive way" you present, Zoas? I would like to begin my entry into spagyrics utilizing the exact method depicted in the above image you posted. Curious if you can share any personal experiences. Thanks for the clove suggestion and link, much appreciated.

Amon, great pictures and wonderfully descriptive descriptions. Thank you for sharing your work with us!

elixirmixer
01-11-2017, 01:20 AM
1- I remember having read that COPPER isn't a GREAT idea when it comes to alembics (yes, I know that the "classical" alembic was made of copper) and that SOME essential oils have weird reactions with the copper, and if I am not wrong, Rosemary was one of them [I can't find the source of such thing, it is something I've read whilst investigating alembics a long time ago... my memory can be wrong, but some essential oils were NOT suggested].

The IDEAL would be a normal condenser, but if it's too expensive, you can use a simple glass tube (the lab suppliers always sell them, they should be easy to get in your area).

2- I NEVER got anything with the process you are using.... but steam distillation does the trick. When it comes to steam distillation, there are "cheap" and "expensive" ways to do it...

Zoas is 100% completely correct. A lot of essential oils WILL react with the copper. Rosemary, in my personal experience, is definitely one of them. I have had an exquisite, crystal clear sky blue alcohol, distil out from my S/S condenser, that had inside it some old copper. It was beautiful, but something I keep in a bottle far away from everyone that might wish to play with it.

I have also used a system.. hold on...

975

Which as you can see, has the copper alembic, I used it to make essential oils, the first oil I tried was rosemary... From 20ltrs of Rose.!!!! I got about 10, 15mls at the most of oil :(:mad::(:mad::(:mad:

After searching around I couldn't find the answer by listening to others, I had to investigate, which I most surly did, in a big way, and now have qualified engineers building me the ultimate setup.

But the key here, is no vapour, which, an enclosed apparatus, such as the one shared by Zoas23 is much more likely to achieve. Vacuum is preferable due to the higher quality oils produced by using lower temperatures...

My big machine that's hopefully just around the corner, is utilising the 25ltr still that I already have, but with two large S/S cylinders about 1.2meters long, held directly over the still, the outside cylinder is a steam jacket, which keeps uniformity in the temperature and allows less water to be used for the stilling, which is also a very important aspect of the quality of your oils, since some parts of the oil are polar, while others are no polar, the polar compounds will dissolve into the hydrosol, which sucks, but there isn't much you can do about it, other than do quick, 30min batches, and try to control the steam rate, to the very slowest you can allow. Slow, less water, rather than fast, more water, ect..

zoas23
01-11-2017, 06:46 AM
Have you any experience with the "expensive way" you present, Zoas? I would like to begin my entry into spagyrics utilizing the exact method depicted in the above image you posted. Curious if you can share any personal experiences. Thanks for the clove suggestion and link, much appreciated.

Yes, I use what I called the "expensive way". I did't buy it as a "kit", but as separate parts (some of them I had them for other purposes).... but what I have is identical to the image.

My only tip is that my vessel for the plants is 0.5 liters and it's a bit small... at least 1 liter would be better (the one for the liquid is 3L, but you can use it many times, so it's not so important... no need to invest in something incredibly big like a 10 L flask).

My experience is that some plants are kinder than others... some plants work better fresh and some plants work better dried (the fresh ones contain MORE oils, but they use more space... the dried ones have LESS oils, but use less space i.,e. you have "more" material to work with... so depending on the plant this "equation" gives different results). It is an EXCELLENT device for home use... if your intention was to open "Schmuldvich's essential oils company" and sell essential oils on the internet, then this is too "small" for such thing and a stainless steel 30 L alembic designed for steam distillations would be better... but such thing costs a lot of money.

Other that that, since you are planning (probably) to use it for yourself and obtain SMALL amounts (enough for spagyrics), then this device is perfect.

Nothing interesting to say about my personal experience with this device, other than saying that it does what it is meant to do... and it is a very good design, so it doesn't even take "practice" (it will work the first time you use it). The only comment is that some plants are more "generous" than others (i.e, use cloves and you'll get an insane amount... use melissa and you'll get almost nothing).

Amon
01-11-2017, 05:37 PM
Elixirmixer & Zoas23

The test run gave off no vapors at the end of the tube, all the distillate came out in liquid form. Don't know if the same will occur when it comes to essential oils. Taking into account that a common Liebig condenser is around 600mm long i wouldn't say that 400mm of copper tube is that bad. I did think of coiling it around (but i had trouble doing it) and i will do so with more copper tubing in case this arrangement proves inadequate.
As for the copper, i looked around the interweb for essential oil distilling apparatus and found a bunch of copper alembics for that exact reason. I will try the water boiling distilling method (the one Axismundi suggested which is also proposed in Junius's Handbook on Plant Alchemy) and hopefully it will work. My main issue at the moment is that i need a deeper stainless steel bowl so that the sand will cover a greater portion of the flask/vessel and thus far i haven't come up with anything. I tried using a concentrated milk tin can (which reacted to magnetic attraction thus aluminum was ruled out) but then on the open flame it began to give off smoke and blacken (which proves its not stainless steel).

As for the rest of my equipment, i did say i want to pull this off using easily accesible materials (which means no advanced or specially designed chemistry glassware) and after doing so, i will then make my life easier and incorporate said tools in "my" kitchen.

EDIT: I just figured out how to increase the surface covered by the sand using the tin can :P

zoas23
01-11-2017, 08:02 PM
You remind me of Ghetto Alchemist some years ago... who had a lovely and ingenious home-made equipment for everything.

I never got the oil by distilling with only one flask, though I am not saying it is impossible. My results had always been a "tea" (well, it is basically like distilling a tea).

40 cm doesn't seem "too short" for me as long as you keep the water quite cold (you probably know the "trick" of adding some salt to the ice & water, which does NOT lower the temperature, but it lowers the freezing point of the water... thus you can have -10C water in liquid form). I would change the tube for a glass tube though (instead of copper).

ALSO... if you don't have luck, but want to keep things "cheap", you can gain practice in this method (expect a LOT of failures before a success):


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2keRTbA2zAQ

... and cut the bottom of a wine bottle... and then you can add a rubber or cork stopper and make a "ghetto style" steam distillation apparatus (i.e, the plants would be in the bottle). With "ghetto style" I simply mean the devices that Ghetto Alchemist was showing some years ago, which were lovely.

P.S, if you use the bottle, the idea is to use it "inverted" (the bottom on the top).

Amon
01-11-2017, 09:24 PM
Zoas23

I never actually though about using salt to decrease the freezing temprature! I was just explaining to my younger brother how adding salt can increase the boiling point but my mind didn't even think about the decrease of freezing point. Anyway,i just tested the tin can addition and it works fine although not on the boiling flask but on the original jar from which i got the cork seal.

https://s24.postimg.org/3p6rvxsit/DSC_0246.jpg

I cut both sides of the can and dipped it in the sand, put the jar inside the can and filled it around with sand. Now, i also used more food wrap to wrap the seal prior to sealing the jar and i noticed during the distillation that some vapors do indeed pass through the cork. Anybody have any ideas how i can minimize that? I was thinking of using wax to cover the entirety of the top part before beginning the distillation but a few minutes exposure of the wax on the jar's mouth (as the water inside was boiling) showed that wax liquified rather easily. I am thinking of using clay to seal the connection and when the process is done break the clay off.

zoas23
01-11-2017, 10:27 PM
If you use RUBBER instead of cork, you won't have leaks. Sealing with clay... I've done it with little success... you end up having leaks. I would use a rubber stopper instead of cork, it should not give you leaks (rubber is more flexible, so it gets more "tight" on the tube... LOL... don't know how to say it in English, but you'll get the idea).

And salt reduces the freezing point... so it's good for your condenser because it's not that the ice gets colder (i remember someone saying such thing)... but simply that the liquid water can be below 0C in liquid state... so more "colder water" will be touching your condenser (I still think that glass would be better than copper).

Kiorionis
01-12-2017, 01:14 AM
If you use RUBBER instead of cork, you won't have leaks. Sealing with clay... I've done it with little success... you end up having leaks.

The most successful sealant I've used is paste made from flour and water :cool:

Schmuldvich
01-12-2017, 01:22 AM
The most successful sealant I've used is paste made from flour and water :cool:
Is it easily removable/not too messy? More desirable than wax you'd say?

Kiorionis
01-12-2017, 01:43 AM
Most of the wax I've used just melts off..

And I would say the reward is totally worth the effort of cleanup.

zoas23
01-12-2017, 05:06 AM
The most successful sealant I've used is paste made from flour and water :cool:

Nice trick!!!

Though, in my opinion, the BEST solution is often not having a problem rather than fixing a problem... with rubber stoppers, I doubt there will be anything to "fix".

Amon
01-15-2017, 02:09 AM
UPDATE 15/1/17

Just tried distilling the essential oils away. I filled the flask with 75g of rosemary (which i pounded in a mortar beforehand, but didnt achieve much) but i filled it with too much water. The result was that as the water started boiling, the liquid as a whole began to rise and it started passing through the tube. As a result i was getting the water of a regular rosemary tea on the other end. Appart from that, the liquid also managed to pass through the stopper and started overflowing. So, i removed the flask from the heat, poured some of the contents out so as the reduce the amount of liquid within and placed it back in the flame (sandbath). Tried using a draft jar to collect all the remaining liquid that had stayed in the tube with the small amount of vapors that was to come first. Apparently, i had to use 2 of those due to poor judgement.

1st collection jar:
https://s29.postimg.org/xtv0d969z/DSC_0249.jpg

2nd jar:
https://s30.postimg.org/ivysiad7l/DSC_0251.jpg

After that, there only came an almost clear liquid that retained the smell of rosemary. (it is a tiny bit cloudy)
https://s29.postimg.org/8av8384g7/DSC_0253.jpg
https://s28.postimg.org/bdizzi825/DSC_0254.jpg

The only problem is i don't have a clear phase separation. I guess its due to having obtained a small amount of distillate (because i can clearly see the "strings" within the liquid that are caused by the oil). But i think if i poured it into a long and thin tube,then it would be easier to separate.

Kiorionis
01-15-2017, 02:16 AM
The only problem is i don't have a clear phase separation.

In my experience, the "phase separations" happen during rectification. During the first and initial distillation, the water's chemical bonds (hydrogen chain) pull a lot of dross along with it. Fractional distillation is one solution to this.

elixirmixer
01-15-2017, 04:27 AM
Just pour it all back in and start again.