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Vlad
03-07-2009, 11:49 PM
Repost from a file circulating from time to time on the ormus forums. Quite interesting.

HOW TO MAKE WHITE GOLD POWDER
By Don Nance

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 23:16:14 EDT
Subject: HOW TO MAKE WHITE GOLD POWDER #1

Hi :)

I am don from oceanalchemy.com

So, from the emails that I receive I guess that you wish to make your own white powder of gold. Is this true?

Okay, then...lets do it.

***SOME OF THESE PROCESSES ARE DANGEROUS AND THE DANGER FACTOR VARIES FROM ONE PART OF THE PROCESS TO ANOTHER***ALSO USE THE SIZE FLASK INDICATED WITHIN THE TEXT***some common sense would indicate to just buy from an Alchemist, but you don't want to hear that ;-) Further realize that this is not a method to the Classical Philosopher's Stone (neither was David Hudson's) nor to the Red Lion. But this process will take you directly to the White Powder of Pure Gold.

Get what ever quantity of pure (at least 99.99% pure) gold that you can afford. I will list the process as a step-by-step METHOD that does not include an Alchemist...for that benefit, you are on your own.

The length of this process is such that you will need to first and foremost be patient, as I have to eat and have bills to pay like many of you here. If you cannot afford to buy at least 1/4 ounce of gold, then please reply ASAP and I will tell you how to get around that...but this holds a price tag in my efforts, your efforts and the outcome of All efforts. Better to snag some of the yellow stuff.

As luck would have it the moon phase is just right for the first steps. We want to make the gold go away, just as the moon is.

For every 1/4 ounce of gold, either powder or leaf it. This I do, as I buy it in shot form, by setting a blow torch to it and melting it all into one big nugget. Then, while it is still hot I beat hell out of it with a hammer into the shape of a thin coin, then I file it with a new Mill Bastard file into powder which I put into my 2 liter lab glass filtering flask for the initial dissolution. The gold is soft and does not leach anything from the very hard steels used. No matter what anyOne may say, I have assays which tell me that this is the preferred Way, just as the Ancients accomplished it, except that we have purer gold than they had. There are no contaminants from this method. If you don't believe, then I am wasting my time...and yours...go get an education!

I now have 1/4 ounce of pure gold in my 2 liter flask. To this I will add 6 ounces of distilled water. Into this water I will add 3 teaspoons of salt. I will stir this until it is dissolved. AFTER the salt is dissolved, I will add pure HCL, the ACS is 35% and I will add 8 ounces of it. I will then add the Celestial Fire. (you are creating approximately a 20% acid solution of HCL)

Once all of this is happy, One may expect some reaction from the HCL, but there is none. The Au (gold) just sits there, and it will do so indefinitely. At this point, we begin to kindle a fire...but not the kind of fire that you are accustomed to lighting ;-)

Take 1 ounce of 35% Food Grade H2O2, yes, that's hydrogen peroxide, and add it to your flask. The reaction will take about 20 minutes to begin, depending upon ambient temperature. You may or may not need to add more FIRE (H2O2) to the mix, this depends upon the particle size of your gold, which ALWAYS VARIES..What you want to see is a steady stream of bubbles rising from all of your gold. The temperature within the flask may elevate somewhat, and it will definitely give off NOXIOUS CHLORINE GAS which must be vented, somehow, without allowing the ORMUS to escape... If you cannot figure out how to accomplish this task, then, trust me, you do not want to do this procedure. If you don't trust me, then...WHY are you doing this?

You will continue to add H2O2 by the 1/2 ounce, to keep the fire going. I personally believe that this "cold reaction" is soliciting energy from the Zero point or from the Ether to disaggregate the gold, as this method defies rational mathematics. You will always have to watch your fire, as any Alchemist would, to keep it fueled and fired, or your gold will take forever to go away if you do not. IF you try to go too fast, you will have a real mess on your hands as the ACID BOILS OVER ONTO EVERYTHING and ruins your wildest hopes. Be patient here, please.

This takes time, as every Chemist hates, you do not dissolve gold for Aurum Potable overnight. Give it up. The click of the clock is but a contrivance of Mankind to keep his Like enslaved and controlled. The real time is that time which it takes...that time which IS, that time which comes around to you...the Patient One.

Once seven people have replied stating that they are at this point, then I will again Serve. I will also ask that those Seven will not be anonymous, as I am not, and that they will be at service to those in need. That they will be Responsible to aid with the helping of others. They will be responsible for their actions. I will then follow with next processes. But not until. If you do not agree, then go buy some dognuts and shut up.

Sincerely...I have answered your call...this thing I Will Do...

As Above ~ So Below

don nance
swiftrock@juno.com
www.oceanalchemy.com

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:58:50 EDT
Subject: HOW TO MAKE WHITE GOLD POWDER #1 Outline steps 1 ~ 9

To dissolve 1/10 ounce of gold, I use the following recipe, step-by-step.

1) Into a 500 ml. flask I place 60 ml. of distilled water.

2) I stir in 1 teaspoon of pure salt. Good to use Morton canning and pickling salt. Be CERTAIN that all of the salt is dissolved and the solution is clear of particulates. This is important. Don't use iodized salt and do not use a salt with anti-caking chemicals in it. Use pure NaCl.

3) Add your gold filings.

4) Stir in, VERY SLOWLY, 80 ml. of muriatic acid. I use ACS quality, but Buckman's Laboratories makes a very pure muriatic, which is available from quality pool/spa dealers. Smart brand also works. The muriatic must be clear/colorless, as the yellow stuff contains sulfur and will NOT work. The acid must be added VERY slowly. If you go too fast, the salt will precipitate back out of your solution. This will work, but seriously slows down the dissolution of your gold. When this happens, the salt will slowly go back into solution as your gold dissolves. So if this occurs, just go on with the recipe, realizing that it slowed you down considerably.

5) add in some 35% H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) food grade or technical grade (minimum). Add it about 1 teaspoon at a time and wait 20 minutes. A "fire" will begin inside of your flask. You want to have a good steady stream of bubbles coming from all of your gold. You also want to build your fire slowly. If you add too much H2O2 you run the risk of having it boil on you and it will come out of your flask and the gassing will be extreme and acid will go everywhere and life on our planet, as we know it, will have changed ;-)

6) Place this inside of a shield (nest) and check it three times a day. Add H2O2 as needed until your gold goes away. This takes as long as it takes. The Philosophers had many ways of marking time. The two that we are concerned with here are the lunar phases and the "elastic" time, that which is marked by a reaction taking as long as it takes. The variable being that you will never have exactly the same particle size for your gold and the phase of the moon. Best to do your dissolution during the waning moon and precipitations during the waxing, culminating during the full moon. Believe it or not, this really makes a difference.

7) Once all of your gold is dissolved, add more H2O2 and keep the fire going for a while longer. This will help to break up the metallic clusters.

Once this is complete, you will have a very pretty gold chloride. Its ph will be MINUS 2.0 (on my well calibrated meter). It will eat you to the bone. Always wear protection for eyes, hands, etc...anything that you could not stand to lose :)

From here there are several "ways to go." The most direct way to white gold is to make up a lye menstruum of about 1 part lye to 8 parts water. This is about 18 oz. of lye crystals slowly dissolved into a gallon of distilled water. This reaction creates heat and some nasty fumes and needs to be done in a glass jar or beaker. The lye, just like the acids, are always added to the water. NEVER add water to concentrated lye or to concentrated acid. You will have a big problem!

8) Once your gold solution has stopped bubbling from the H2O2, begin dripping your 1/8 lye menstruum into it at a rate of about 4 drops per second while stirring briskly. You ARE wearing gloves and eye protection, aren't you? You really don't need a ph meter for this. Just bring the ph up but not too quickly! Too fast and it will boil on you...if you see some steam collecting on the sides of your flask, you are getting too hot. Slow down your lye addition and keep stirring. This reaction takes a WHILE.

Your solution will clear, you can stop and rest here. If you are going too fast, the solution will clear and then very quickly change color and a precipitate will form. That's fine, no worries.

Stop adding lye when you get a precipitate, this will occur by ph 10.78 if you are using a meter. If no meter, stop when you get a color change and a precipitate.

While you are resting, mix up an acid solution in a glass jar by adding 4 parts of muriatic acid to 3 parts of distilled water.

9) Start stirring your gold solution and slowly drip in some of this acid solution. This acid solution should approximate a 20% strength. Stop adding acid solution when your gold precipitate disappears. The ph will be around ph 1 or so. The color of the solution will likely be gold but not as concentrated looking as before. It may also be another color. No worries again, just look at it to see that there are no particles. If so, add more acid solution. If you still have particles, stop there and add some more H2O2 just as before and break this stuff up some more.

Cont'd.

Don

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:53:00 EDT
Subject: HOW TO MAKE WHITE GOLD POWDER steps 9 ~

Continued from step #9....

10) Begin stirring your gold acid solution and start dropping in your LYE menstruum to again raise the ph of your solution. You want to go on up to ph 10.78 again or until you get a precipitate. Don't be surprised if this is yet a different color from the last time you did this.

11) Now bring the ph back down into acid using your 20% HCL solution that you likely made from muriatic acid. This time, when the particles disappear, the solution will no longer be gold colored at all. This is your clue that the metal bonds are broken up sufficiently to proceed.

12) Now, LOL! Bring the ph of your solution up to about ph 8.0 or so by stirring quickly and adding your lye menstruum in drops.

What we are doing with all of these ph swings is breaking the metallic bonds of your gold metal.

Now what you have is three things from your gold. Although this is not readily apparent! The precipitate that is falling is made up of the larger metallic clusters. It is gold oxide. It is still metal. However, in your solution, is the oil of gold, chlorides and consciousness (m-state). To make a Stone One would do a different process at this point. However, we are concerned with getting to the white powder/elixir stage. So we do this...

Instead of separating the various Philosophical components, we will "marry" them. Many of the superfluous impurities went away with that nasty chlorine gas. If you wish to complicate your life, you can do this...

12a) let the precipitate settle well, then pour off the top water and KEEP it, (You can evaporate this down, very slowly, and obtain a white powder of gold trichloride which is VERY POTENT) and wash the precipitate with 3 times as much distilled water as you have precipitate by volume. This is done by simply adding the Universal Solvent (distilled water) to your separated precipitate and stirring. You let this settle and pour it off (I eat it :) then add the original top water back into the precipitate...then proceed to the next step...or you can skip all of step 12a and just jump right to...

13) Place the precipitate and top water into a boiling flask and over a gas flame or candle, slowly evaporate the water from your precipitate. My advise is to not boil this and go to a just-dry state. This, again, takes as long as it takes. Do not boil it and do not bake the dryness or scorch it. You want it just thoroughly dry. The addition of the gentle heat will help the oils reunite with the precipitate. Boiling it will drive off m-state.

14) Once it is thoroughly dry, you will need to large boiling pot. I use a Visions glass/ceramic dutch oven in 5 quart size WITH LID. Boiling won't drive off so much of the m-state now that the oils are reunited with the precipitate. Take it out of doors, on a moonlit night, before the full moon, and place your dry precipitate inside of it. In a separate glass jar, add 18 ounces of lye slowly into 1 gallon of distilled water. This causes heat and must be thoroughly stirred in until it clears. Don't breathe the vapors.

15) Stir this now clear lye menstruum into your boiling pot with your precipitate sitting there.

16) Bring this to a full rolling boil and reduce the heat, while stirring, then cover tightly and place a brick or some other inflammable weight on the lid to reduce steam losses. THIS BOILING LYE IS VERY VERY VERY DANGEROUS!!! Let it boil, at a gentle rolling boil, for at least 4 hours.

17) When done, add some distilled water to bring the level back up to one gallon. Let it cool and settle.

18) Filter your solution through unbleached filters until it is clear of any particulates. I use a 1 micron filtering system.

19) While stirring your filtered solution rapidly, drip in some of your 20% HCL solution (acid solution) to reduce the ph to around 8.0 .

If you want to get fancy, go down slowly (all of this step is done SLOWLY) to below 2 ph and then add some of your 1/8 lye menstruum to bring the ph back up to 7.8 ph.

20) Let your white precipitate settle and separate the top water from it and save the top water.

21) Wash the precipitate as before in distilled water. Let it settle and separate. Save this top water.

At this point you can marry the top water to the precipitate by evaporation, as before, or you can simply dry the white, saltless precipitate and anneal it or you can measure it into water and have at it.

I would not wash all of the salt out of it. Annealing is up to you.

If you do not get a white precipitate from step 19 it either was not dry enough before the boil or the clusters were not sufficiently broken up enough. This is often witnessed by a color and precipitate forming when you first add your lye water in step 15. If this happens, precipitate it back out of solution by going to ph 8 with an acid solution, then dry it and redissolve as if you were starting from the beginning with gold metal (step 1). If you get to white gold during the ph swings, simply bring the ph to about 7.8 and wash some of the excess salt out. It is about "there." What you do with the oils which are in your wash and precipitation water is up to your
imagination.

There are other ways to do this. This is only one method of several.

Have fun! Be SAFE! Wear protective clothing.

Love ~~

Don

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:20:11 EDT
Subject: WhiteGold: HOW TO MAKE WHITE GOLD POWDER ~ Basics

Hello again :)

Have been away for a while, someOne testing our patients, eh? Must be the
Powers That Be!

~~

HOW to find gold to make it with....

Simply go to a coin shop! DO NOT buy a Krugerrand for this work, because they and many other coins contain 9999% gold but this is the pure gold CONTENT, they also contain other metals to harden them.

What you want to do is ask for PURE TRADE GOLD COINS, 9999, WITH NO FILLERS. A Liberty trade coin, in 1/10 ounce size, should cost about $40.00. Use this. If they don't have it, have them order for you. These also come in 1/4 oz., 1/2 oz., and 1 oz. weights. If in doubt, talk to the dealer and tell them that you want only pure gold. The trade coins have no intrinsic collector value, they are only worth the Market Value of gold on that day. Just like buying bullion or nuggets. I don't use coins for my work, as I get my certified gold direct from a refinery, but this is no matter, I would use a Liberty Trade coin in a heartbeat.

As we talk about this Work I will explain to you how to spot contaminants.


~~


HOW to find food grade/technical grade Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) 35% strength....

Health food stores, many herb shops, H2O2forU.com...search the web.

~~

HOW to prepare the gold...

You want to buy a Mill Bastard File. They are specifically designed to file metals which are much harder than gold. I prepare my file by washing it in soap and water with a med. tooth brush. Then dry it thoroughly. File the coin down into your flask. Brush the remaining gold from the slots on your file into your flask.

Store your file with a very light coating of pure olive oil.

~~

HOW do we deal with the chlorine gasses?

My initial experiments with this found me using a borosilicate glass beaker and I simply placed another jar over the top (mouth) of it to recirculate the gasses, kind of like a makeshift Pelican. You can also connect a tube from your flask and feed the gasses into the bottom of another flask which is filled with olive oil or water with a little lye in it. This will contain the gasses until you open your gold flask to add more H2O2. Best to ventilate the area. The gasses are VERY CORROSIVE and will damage your lungs. If you do this outside, admit NO direct sunlight.

~~

Shielding is needed...

I do my Work by placing my flask inside of a plastic bucket, which is placed inside of a steel can which is placed inside of a cardboard box. I line the steel can with saran wrap. If you don't, the steel will not last very long ;-) The tubing going to your gas containment flask needs to be long enough to accommodate this and the containment flask need not be shielded.

~~

PURITY...

NO metals other than your gold ever touches the solutions. Period. Use glass, ceramics, etc.

~~

I will next send a recipe which will accommodate 1/10 ounce of gold and any multiple thereof. Simply multiply the quantities of ingredients for the amount of gold that you are dissolving.

~~

Love and abundance ~~

don

theFool
09-21-2014, 06:19 PM
http://i39.servimg.com/u/f39/13/27/64/97/autom110.jpg
Various colorations encountered during this process (seems to work even when the salt is not used in the starting solution).

The precipitate color starts from yellow (1) -> brown -> dark blue (2) -> purple (4) -> grey -> white. Don says that when it reaches the final step it no longer registers as gold metal by some common tests (no yellow color when in solution, no positive tin chloride test).

This dissolution is not chemical but alchemical, thus it will not work every time someone tries it.

Breemar
09-25-2014, 06:34 AM
Looks beautiful. As far as I recall, it may also turn green at a certain state. As the clusters get more and more splitted up, towards monatomic state, the size of the average clusters may correspond with a certain color's wavelength. The final white color may indicate crystaline structures of a broad size range. Well, I'm more or less just guessing.

theFool
09-30-2014, 02:45 PM
I don't know yet if this method produces the real white gold but seems to be a shortcut:

- Prepare gold chloride by dissolving the metal in H2O2/HCl. Add some salt (NaCl, or KCl); I don't know yet how much or if this is necessary at all.
- Add a lot more H2O2 (~10 times more) onto it a give it a good heat.
- Leave it aside for some hours or a day.
- Acidify it and proceed to a slow evaporation until dryiness. This step gets rid of excess H2O2 and HCl. The residue should be white. If you failed, you will see orangish gold chloride in the residue. Tin chloride test here shows negative for Au ions (be carefull to dry it well because the presence of H2O2 can give a false negative)
- Separate it from the NaCl by dissolving the residue in water and adjusting the pH around 10.0 or less. A white (with a little bit of gray color too) precipitate will appear.

http://i39.servimg.com/u/f39/13/27/64/97/au-mst10.png

Properties:
- When pH rises above 12.0 (using NaOH) the white precipitate dissolves in it and disappears.

This method was first discovered by "August". I cant find a link to his experiments right now.

Many more (cheaper) metals can be subjected to the same procedure and (hopefully) give the corresponding m-state form.

Breemar
10-02-2014, 03:30 PM
Sounds rather easy and fast, Just saved, thanks for sharing. Separating from NaCl is by decanting/washing?

theFool
10-02-2014, 06:11 PM
Separating from NaCl is by decanting/washing? Yes.

I give the link to Hudson's patent also: http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/patents/ukpatent.htm
I think that through this process we reach at step (6) of his "Preparation of G-ORME" steps.
The presence of salt (NaCl) in the solution is essential. Without it you get the common orange gold chloride. With the addition of the NaCl, the solution gets a fair green color. According to Hudson, we have Na2Au2Cl8 in the solution of step (6).
His patent is a "must read" material if someone is going to replicate this path. He says at the beginning that "gold that is dissolved with less HNO3 is easier to reduce to the metal from a chloride solution than gold that is dissolved using a greater amount of HNO3". In our case, the oxidant is H2O2 and we need it in excess.

theFool
10-03-2014, 04:12 PM
http://i39.servimg.com/u/f39/13/27/64/97/au-mst11.png

On the right, there are two solutions of gold chloride; one (1) made in the common way and the other (2) made by H2O2 and NaCl. They have similar color (indicating similar concentration) when dissolved in acid. However, the tin chloride test is almost negative for the second one while it gives a nice purple color for the first.

http://i39.servimg.com/u/f39/13/27/64/97/au-mst12.png

Here an attempt to reclaim the metal by SMB precipitation. The control solution (1) gave the normal orangish precipitate (it can give black or purple too, depending on the concentration). The second one (2) gave very little white precipitate (not visible in the photo). The color of the solution changed to transparent because of dilution with more water (deionised).

If this is not some kind of artifact due to possible contamination, it proves that "non reclaimable" gold can exist.

I guess the next test should include activated carbon on the "invisible" metal.

Breemar
10-04-2014, 12:37 AM
So, activated carbon referes to this?:



When the G-ORME is chemically bonded to carbon in an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol under a specific potential, carbon monoxide is formed and the ORME forms Au +Au+ , a black precipitate, which under continued application of potential and dehydration reduces to Au +1 Au -1 , a metallic bonded diatom of gold. This invention establishes that a high potential applied to the solution forces an electron into the d orbital, thus eliminating the electron pair. The first potential, which for G-ORME is approximately -2.2 V and for other ORMEs is between -1.8 and -2.2 V, re-establishes the d orbital overlap. The final potential of -2.5 V overcomes the water potential to deposit gold onto the cathode.


Assuming it is true that ORMEs, including Gold ORME, is present everywhere, eg. in the Air, it should be possible to extract metallic gold from Air directly. After a look into my wallet I just realize that is exactly what I need, haha.

Seriously, thanks for sharing your results. Glad to see your progress.

BTW. wouldn't it be handy to use coal or graphite cathode and anode, as you don't want to involve other metals anyway?
...

theFool
10-04-2014, 08:16 AM
So, activated carbon referes to this?:
...
Not exactly. This process is used for conversion of G-Ormes to metal and involves electrolysis with carbon electrodes. In my case, I have not reached to the G-Orme form of the metal. I think its reduction to metal can be accomplished by simpler means in my case.

elixirmixer
10-12-2016, 12:01 PM
Hey fool, have you ingested any preparations? If so, any effects, if not, why not?

May I dare ask, what is the difference between M-State gold, and white powder gold? or is it one in the same, although you said you had not reached M-state gold.

Is creating M-State gold a different procedure to white powder gold?

theFool
10-12-2016, 03:44 PM
Hello mixer, interesting questions indeed. Looking back on the experiment after 2 years, I would give it the name "white powder gold, (WPG)". In my mind, the m-state gold is similar to the "white powder gold" but the definition of what the m-state is, is very vague. I think we better call it WPG since we have no idea if it is monoatomic or a sodium-gold bond or..

According to alchemical texts, the medicinal form of gold is a red tincture. So, in my opinion, WPG should not be used for such. Probably it is an intermediate towards the red tincture.

If someone tries this kind of experiment, it would be very interesting to see if all of the gold can be converted to the white form or is there always some portion that remains unconverted. It could be that the white powder is a "hidden salt" (http://forum.alchemyforums.com/showthread.php?4138-The-Alchemical-Keys-to-Masonic-Ritual/page2&highlight=secret+salt) inside the gold and not the atom of the metal itself.

elixirmixer
10-12-2016, 10:37 PM
According to alchemical texts, the medicinal form of gold is a red tincture. So, in my opinion, WPG should not be used for such. Probably it is an intermediate towards the red tincture.

If someone tries this kind of experiment, it would be very interesting to see if all of the gold can be converted to the white form or is there always some portion that remains unconverted. It could be that the white powder is a "hidden salt" (http://forum.alchemyforums.com/showthread.php?4138-The-Alchemical-Keys-to-Masonic-Ritual/page2&highlight=secret+salt) inside the gold and not the atom of the metal itself.

I agree with this statement, We want red oil of gold. I also agree that mono-atomic gold is "the salt" or "purified body" ready to receive its sulfur and mercury... What do you think about this hypothesis Fool?

I am actually going to seek an existing thread that focus on this red oil and bring this up there.

theFool
10-13-2016, 05:05 AM
I also agree that mono-atomic gold is "the salt" or "purified body" ready to receive its sulfur and mercury. I'm also following this line of thought, probably it is the sulfur that can receive the mercury. I cannot understand the meaning of "salt" so I leave it to those two only (sulfur, mercury).

elixirmixer
10-13-2016, 05:39 AM
Have we found any reliable definitions on the method to get the partical size down to a beautiful red colour, i know it can go a purple/violet/red precipitate, but im talking red red, like stain glass windows ect..

theFool
10-13-2016, 06:35 AM
Have we found any reliable definitions on the method to get the partical size down to a beautiful red colour, i know it can go a purple/violet/red precipitate, but im talking red red, like stain glass windows ect.. After the red/purple/violet comes the white precipitate which probably is the finest particle size you can get. Then it becomes red again when it joins with "mercury", this new redness is probably not because of smaller particle size.

elixirmixer
10-13-2016, 06:59 AM
After the red/purple/violet comes the white precipitate which probably is the finest particle size you can get. Then it becomes red again when it joins with "mercury", this new redness is probably not because of smaller particle size.

Ahhh it seems we are on a very similar thinking... yes i expected you to say that it goes from the purple violet to the white precipitate upon boiling...

I will PM to discuss more about our Ph. Merc.

theFool
10-13-2016, 08:08 AM
A video on the process here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm8IKtIhMnI

I think he is not faking it.

Andro
10-13-2016, 08:09 AM
I cannot understand the meaning of "salt" so I leave it to those two only (sulfur, mercury).

It's all 'Spirit' (when working alchemically).

Salt & Sulfur & Mercury are merely different states/phases on the density scale/continuum, 'Salt' being the most dense and inert state on this scale/continuum (i.e. 'Central Salt').

That's one of the reasons some people prefer to work with metals (the term 'Central Salt' is often also referred to as 'Salt of Metals'), because metals are 'closer' to the density/fixity of ('our') Salt that they contain (and are more 'rich' in it but more complicated to 'render').

Nevertheless, this inert Salt/Earth or 'Lower' Spirit needs to be 'awakened'/'resurrected' by its own 'Upper' Spirit in order to be of any actual use. This has resulted in much confusion when reading the texts of the adepts, when they claim that the matter is one, but in practice it has multiple aspects, densities and properties during its evolution, not to mention the variety of 'external agents' often used to 'lend a hand' to the alchemical process at the stage of 'opening'/'preparing' the initial matrix/matrices that are found in nature but their Center is not yet visible/tangible.


----------------------------------------------------

elixirmixer
10-13-2016, 02:34 PM
I think it worth noting... that when people talk about M-state experiences... they often refer to strange syncrynocities that occur in their lives..

I would just like to report, that, just by having the pure intent to create M-State material, the universe is folding before my eyes, to create wormholes to make that happen.

Im not a big 'hey i took this supplement and then i got a hot girlfriend and a promotion' but strange things are happening including a state hospital, volunteering me peroxide and hcl for free straight over the counter no questions asked (except me asking for the peroxide) and then the lady at the health food shop giving me the celtic sea salt for free because she liked the idea of what i was doing.

Riddle me that boys... Everything i need, within two hours of me "wanting" it... all for free from the ORME's!!!!

elixirmixer
10-14-2016, 08:57 PM
Do we think that the process for M-State silver would be then same??

Ghislain
10-16-2016, 03:21 AM
I need a couple of kilos of gold for my next experiment ;)

Joking aside, I have a lot of those synchronicities...Good isn't it :)

Ghislain