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Thread: DMT Extraction Guide

  1. #1
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    DMT Extraction Guide


    So for all you who are comfortable in a physical lab setting... how easy is this really?

    Donít let the delusion of reality confuse you regarding the reality of the illusion.


  2. #2
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    It is a standard procedure, found in chemistry books under the name "Alkaloid extraction". Now in practice there are two problems. 1) It needs time (about a month), so one must be determined. 2) Purity of the reagents. He says for example:
    Before using any solvents test a significant amount (~500ml) of the solvent by evaporating it in a dish. This will verify that there are no residues or orders left when evaporation is complete (commonly found in many over-the-counter solvents.)
    Do this for naptha and HCl (the two most difficult ingredients to obtain clean). HCl may have heavy metals. In that case it may need to be distilled once. NaOH is easy, one can find food grade quality.
    Anyway, we can help, it is not out of our range.

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    OK, thanks. I reckon you should all make this instead of colloidal silver.

    Donít let the delusion of reality confuse you regarding the reality of the illusion.


  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by dev View Post
    OK, thanks. I reckon you should all make this instead of colloidal silver.

    Haha, all things have their uses.

    DMT extraction is pretty freaking easy. Just a tip: it really is best to do a defatting step (depending on your starting source).
    Last edited by Aleilius; 12-30-2010 at 10:39 AM.

  5. #5
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    Happy New Year to all!! Hello Dev, here is the easiest extraction I've found. All you need is mimosa h. Rootbark and sodium hydroxide. Known as straight to base method. Mimosa is low in fats but if defatting is needed you could always clean it by recrystalizing with acetone after product has been extracted.
    http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Lazyman%27s_tek

    -Peace

  6. #6
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    OK, thanks. I reckon you should all make this instead of colloidal silver.
    and we thought that it will turn you into practicalist.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by theFool View Post
    and we thought that it will turn you into practicalist.
    Haha!! We're kind of like the Borg. Soon we will assimiliate you deviadah.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nibiru View Post
    here is the easiest extraction I've found. All you need is mimosa h. Rootbark and sodium hydroxide. Known as straight to base method. Mimosa is low in fats but if defatting is needed you could always clean it by recrystalizing with acetone after product has been extracted.
    http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Lazyman%27s_tek
    It Stinks that the Link isn't working anymore. However I did a little digging and found this.

    Straight-To-Base
    • Straight-To-Base or STB techniques are generally considered the simplest of extraction techniques and, as such, are the most commonly used. The process involves the use of a strong base reagent in solution to break down source material and convert the contained product from its natural salt form to freebase, which will in turn be more soluble in an NPS than in the basic aqueous solution.
    • Considerations:
    • The use of "Straight To Base" techniques requires little experience or technical know-how for beginners to approach extraction techniques. STB is best-suited for quick, non-labor-intensive, crude bulk extractions. It requires no straining or cooking but requires time for soaking and separation. STB tends to yield a greater array of botanical impurities due to its lack of straining and defatting. These techniques do however enable a more thorough exhaustion of product from the material. This technique is ideal for shredded material that requires little or no defatting.
    Material Considerations:
    • Lye is extremely toxic and hazardous, though most find it easy to handle safely.
    • STB methods generally demand a hefty volume of solvents for sufficient performance.
    • Naphtha and heptane are generally found to pull a more pure product, and though their poor ability to dissolve DMT demands some amount of heating to pull a considerable amount, it also allows for product to be isolated by freeze-precipitation.
    • Toluene and Xylene are generally found to dissolve DMT more easily but also dissolve a wider range of alkaloids and other substances from the source material, and though they do not facilitate freeze-precipitation, they do facilitate the use of FASA.
    • DCM is capable of pulling an even fuller range of alkaloids from the source material, as unlike other NPS's, it sinks in water.
    • Diethyl ether as a binary solvent in combination with heptane also pulls full-range alkaloids. Using this combination the ether can be distilled off rather rapidly, leaving behind an alkaloid-saturated solution of heptane ready for immediate freeze precipitation. Note! Diethyl ether is extremely flammable. Exercise extreme caution!
    • Limonene has become the solvent of choice among many--largely due to being nontoxic--but is considerably more expensive and harder to find than other less savory NPS's, and though it does not facilitate the use of FASA or freeze-precipitation, it can facilitate salting methods like FASW and FASIPA.
    • Most commonly used solvents do not facilitate expedient or clean evaporation, due to either impurities from the solvent itself or pulled from the source material, though heptane and naphtha tend to be most effectively used in this way.
    Methods:
    • STB extraction involves a soak of pulverized source material in a basic solution, followed by the stirring in of an NPS. The NPS is separated from the aqueous solution by siphoning, pipetting, or use of a separatory device.
    Extraction Procedure
    1. Prepare a basic solution between pH 12-14 by adding base to the appropriate amount of water for the amount of source material to be used.
    2. Immerse the pulverized source material in the basic solution and allot time for material breakdown and freebase conversion.
    3. Stir or shake in the target solvent enough to ensure adequate dissolution of product.
    4. Allow the solvent to separate from the aqueous solution in two distinct layers and separate using appropriate separatory methods.
    5. Collect solvent and proceed with appropriate desired crystallization methods.
    -Source I posted the whole method here for easier viewing and the possibility if the source site being taken down or the page removed like what happened here:
    Quote Originally Posted by Nibiru View Post
    here is the easiest extraction I've found. All you need is mimosa h. Rootbark and sodium hydroxide. Known as straight to base method. Mimosa is low in fats but if defatting is needed you could always clean it by recrystalizing with acetone after product has been extracted.
    http://wiki.dmt-nexus.com/Lazyman%27s_tek
    Hope this helps anyone looking to do this!

    GOD Bless, LGO

  9. #9
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    This extraction should take less than 3 hours, that does not include drying time.
    If you start today you will have DMT tomorrow.


    Materials needed
    (Quantities can be scaled accordingly to work with smaller or larger amounts of material)
    Protective gloves, glasses and paint mask should be used
    100 grams of DMT containing plant material
    100 grams of Sodium Hydroxide (NAOH / Lye)
    ***Lye will burn your skin, vinegar will neutralize the burn. We’ve all seen Fight Club***
    ~400ml of distilled white vinegar
    1L Naphtha
    ~400ml of distilled H2O
    1L Mason jar
    1lb iodized salt (you will not need all of this but salt is cheap)
    Funnel, Turkey baster (glass), Pyrex dish, Fan, Razor blades, another small Mason jar with a lid

    The idea behind the extraction is that the DMT is in the plant material and we are going to get it out.

    The state of DMT changes between salt or freebase by using acids or bases respectively. If you have a pH 4 (acidic) solution containing DMT, the DMT will be converted to a salt. If you now basify this to pH 14, all the DMT salt will be converted to its freebase form. The pH scale ranges from 1-14, 7 being neutral, 1 extremely acidic and 14 extremely alkaline.

    As we change the state of the DMT, we also change its solubility properties:
    DMT salts are soluble in polar solvents (water, alcohol) but insoluble in non-polar solvents.
    DMT freebase is soluble in non-polar solvents (Naphtha, Xylene, Hexane, Heptane) but is insoluble in polar solvents.
    Non-polar solvents are hydrophobic resulting in seperate layers when mixed (best example being water and cooking oil).

    Understanding these basic points allows an extraction technique to be devised:

    Prepare Your Bark
    Buy your bark in powder form, otherwise you're in for a lot of extra work.

    Stove Top
    Bring ~500ml vinegar to a boil and remove from heat. In a seperate pot bring ~500ml distilled H2O to a boil, add iodized salt until it stops dissolving, the key here is to saturate the H2O. Set aside for 10 minutes until the salt that didn’t dissolve settles to the bottom. Run the salt H2O through a coffee filter collecting the extra salt and disgard.

    Acid Soak
    In your Mason jar add 100g bark powder + hot vinegar + hot salt-H2O. Fill to two inches below the rim of the jar and shake until mixed well. Continue to shake occasionally for 1 hour allowing the DMT alkaloids to change into salt form catalyzed by the low pH. The purpose of the salt is to take up virtually all the vacant space in the H2O and help push the DMT alkaloids into the non-polar solvent once changed into freebase form. With this amount of vinegar a pH meter is not needed. The low pH ensures all DMT is in its salt form, which is soluble in H2O.

    Basify
    Basify by adding 100g NAOH to the jug but not all at once. The reaction creates heat and will boil if you dump it all in one shot. Once all the NAHO is added top off the jug with the salt-H2O until the aqueous solution level is 1 inch below the rim of the jar. With this amount of NAOH a pH meter is not needed. The red/brown aqueous solution will turn dark purple. The high pH ensures all DMT is now in its freebase form, which is soluble in Naphtha. Shake occasionally over an hour. Burp jar to prevent too much pressure from building. Burping is not nessesary when the aqueous solution has returned to room temperature.

    Pulling
    Add ~50ml-100ml of Naphtha to the jar, filling it to 98% (leaving an air bubble helps for mixing). Shake this vigorously turning over end, upside down and spinning for a few minutes. Set down and let the Naphtha separate from the aqueous solution. If there is an emulsion layer of bubbles between the aqueous solution and the Naphtha go read a book or do some errands. The reaction is still taking place. Eventually there will be no emulsion after mixing/settling time. Once there are two defined layers use the GLASS turkey baster to suck out the Naphtha and put it in your collection mason jar. Don’t worry about getting every last drop! You will continue to do many pulls so it's ok if you leave a some Naphtha behind each pull. What is most important is NOT removing any of the aqueous solution. Wear your mask and do this in a well-ventilated area.

    Drying
    Once you have a good amount DMT saturated Naphtha collected (it will probably have a yellow tint), pour this into your Pyrex dish with a fan blowing on it. Set your dish up outside in a shed. DO NOT do this in your house. (If you live in a cold region it’s ok if it’s zero degrees outside – Naphtha’s freezing temperature is -72 degrees). Freezing temperatures actually promote crystal growth. Freeze preparation is possible but very time consuming and if you don’t have a separate freezer you don’t want Naphtha next to your ice cream. Let the fan blow on Pyrex dish until evaporated yielding crystals. Scrape these up, consolidate and chop up until you have a nice fine powder.

    Continue to add ~50ml-100ml of Naphtha to the jar, shake, let settle and separate until the aqueous solution is exhausted of DMT alkaloids. You will know this when nothing yields after evaporation. Typical yields are 1-2%. If you’re yielding mucky oil that is clearly not crystal you will need to defat. DO NOT ingest any of this yet, oils trap solvents and it needs to be cleaned.

    Defat
    Bring some Naphtha to a boil. NOT OVER FLAME!! A magnetic hot plate stirrer works great for this. 100ml of hot Naphtha to 1g of DMT is a good ratio. Add your DMT muck to the Naphtha and shake until it's dissolved. Now add 100ml of the same vinegar/distilled H2O solution. Shaking this vigorously will change the freebase DMT back into salt and they will fall out of the Naphtha into the aqueous solution. The DMT is now in salt form but the fats and oils are still in the Naphtha. The Naphtha can be seperated and disgarded. A seperatroy funnel works great for this. Now add some NAOH a little at a time until you see the DMT crash out of the aqueous solution. It will become cloudy. Add 100ml of Naphtha and shake vigorously. Let this separate - remove the Naphtha put it in your drying dish. Don’t be surprised if your DMT comes out snow white after defatting. Defatting can be done even if you yield a nice tan powder but remember that removing the fats and oils makes your DMT less user friendly. It’s more prone to burning, is less stable and has a shorter shelf life.

    Yellow/tan DMT is ideal for first timers.
    Purified DMT is great for vaporizers, making changa and pharmahuasca (see other pages).

    Love and Light ~ Safe travels and may your ego be destroyed ~ Digest Yourself.

    SOURCE: http://www.digestyourself.com/#!extraction-liquid/wcqdm

    Last edited by Awani; 12-31-2015 at 08:18 PM.
    Donít let the delusion of reality confuse you regarding the reality of the illusion.


  10. #10
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    LOL... maybe some issues need an "invitation only" private section of the forum.

    The laws of some countries give sentences that go from 5 years to life sentence for persons who follow these steps.

    Also, we recently had a discussion about Lye and Mercury.

    Also, Naphta??? I would be surprised if someone finds Naphta that leaves no traces of "shit" after burning it to test that it's "safe".

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