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Thread: Help needed: Putrefaction and Red Oil from Plants

  1. #21
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    Jul 2018
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    With the ENS process, once the alcohol is added and you shake/mix, you will see the plant matter and the oil of Tartar separate into multiple layers in your jar. I only ingest the top layer, ie the plant's essential oil and alcohol.

    The layer below is the plant salts, organic matter and the layer below is the Oil of Tartar which is clear when started and turns red from the process. You don't ingest the Oil of Tartar. The bottom layer is the potassium carbonate white salts. The potassium carbonate can be calcined and reused again.

    If the ENS tincture doesn't separate into layers, then yes I would not ingest it and start over again.

    Stinging Netttle's oil was very green, I got yellow oil from another plant. Frankincense is an orange oil. I have found different plants produce different colors on the essential oil/alcohol top layer. Tumeric and myrrh were red.

  2. #22
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    Jul 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by elixirmixer View Post
    So; after reading the Putrifaction thread, it seems that Alchemical Putrifaction is when "a body is immersed in its own waters"???? is that right?

    Now, I have some corriander (cilantro) which i gentle distilled out the waters, powdered the dry herb and re combined them. While SOMEthing is happening, it is not changing colour. It is very slowly producing gases which I keep releasing from the jar. Is this process worth while? Or am I just rotting good cilantro?

    I took a sample of this and added some hydrogen peroxide to see if oxidation was the key. It made no difference at all at this stage.

    Im getting desperate so i think im going to just circulate this heavily and see if that will do anything.

    I firmly believe that a red oil can be extracted out of any plant. I was hoping to learn how to do that without dry distillation, alas, it seems that could be my only way.
    Alchemical putrefaction can be done wet or dry. If you distilled fresh picked cilantro in a BM and then put the distilled waters back on the dry powdered herb and let them cohabitate for a couple of days in a sealed jar at the temp of a hot summer day then the water when filtered out of the herb will be brownish or yellowish brown or orange reddish. If you then distill that water a dull dark reddish somewhat gummy mass will remain in the flask. If you put the water back on the mass and solve then filter then distill the mass will get redder by the rotation. That is the Vegetable Fire. The Sulfur Fire is a product of dry distillation.

    If you let the dry herb soak too long in the first water then microorganisms will sprout and ruin the work with rot.

    Dry putrefaction is accomplished by taking the herb fresh and sealing it in a vessel and heating to about 250F for about 14 days. Or take a dry herb and moisten it to saturation with "water of the clouds" (distilled water) before sealing in the vessel for putrefaction.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    It takes forever to find the information. There are 4 heats of mulching regulated by 4 types of bacteria. A mulch with too much Nitrogen smells like death. A mulch with the right nitrogen to carbon ratio produces a sweet smelling earth. Indeed microbes are present but you may be able to flash your plant with high heat before mulching. I am not sure. At the 4th stage of heat mulch is extremely hot and can self ignite. Its called a mulch fire. It is when your earth literally catches fire because of its own heat.
    Formerly known as Avaar186.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by z0 K View Post
    Alchemical putrefaction can be done wet or dry. If you distilled fresh picked cilantro in a BM and then put the distilled waters back on the dry powdered herb and let them cohabitate for a couple of days in a sealed jar at the temp of a hot summer day then the water when filtered out of the herb will be brownish or yellowish brown or orange reddish. If you then distill that water a dull dark reddish somewhat gummy mass will remain in the flask. If you put the water back on the mass and solve then filter then distill the mass will get redder by the rotation. That is the Vegetable Fire. The Sulfur Fire is a product of dry distillation.

    If you let the dry herb soak too long in the first water then microorganisms will sprout and ruin the work with rot.

    Dry putrefaction is accomplished by taking the herb fresh and sealing it in a vessel and heating to about 250F for about 14 days. Or take a dry herb and moisten it to saturation with "water of the clouds" (distilled water) before sealing in the vessel for putrefaction.
    How do you heat up a sealed vessel to 250f without it exploding?
    Join me; on a voyage of stupidity, and self discovery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=vccZSHroTG4

  5. #25
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    Jul 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by elixirmixer View Post
    How do you heat up a sealed vessel to 250f without it exploding?
    Very carefully Seriously, you have to have a vessel large enough to contain the expanding vapors and seal it tight then raise heat gradually.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by z0 K View Post
    Very carefully Seriously, you have to have a vessel large enough to contain the expanding vapors and seal it tight then raise heat gradually.
    Would you consider venting the pressure before reaching 250F a good idea?
    Art is Nature in the flask; Nature is a vial thing.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiorionis View Post
    Would you consider venting the pressure before reaching 250F a good idea?
    If you vented the air in the vessel as it warmed up then sealed it before any of the volatile spirits of the herb rose is probably OK. Ripley says to seal it so the spirits don't escape so they can commit homicides on each other.

  8. #28
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    So; what about heating the vessel to say 300f while empty, then dropping the fresh herb inside and closing the lid and dropping the heat back down to 250.

    If I have a pelican that has a 2000ml boiling flask and 1000ml upper flask, how much should I fill the vessel?
    Join me; on a voyage of stupidity, and self discovery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=vccZSHroTG4

  9. #29
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    This is one of those sites I need to take a few months on. Roll through it and print out every good piece of information.
    Soon too. Haha.
    Anyway. Try useing a vessel which is not glass.
    Porcelain or a type of ceramic would probably fit your needs as these are very similar to glass. Very clean.

    As well the pressure is most likely part of the point.
    During dry distillation there is moisture present no? At these high temps in a sealed vessel the liquid will not vaporize. If you were to pre heat the vessel then drop your substance in the liquid would vaporize when while sealed inside. As well most vessels don't do well if you heat them naked. So if you do so, do it incrementally. adjust the heat every 5 to 10 minutes. Give the vessel enough time to disperse the heat and expand. I would heat slowly like this regardless.

    My biggest issue with alchemy techniques most describe. At one point or another the body is always left behind. It is never brought to a point of becoming a dissolved solute.
    The body is the solute never fully dissolved. Right or wrong this aspect bothers me. Haha.
    Formerly known as Avaar186.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avatar View Post
    My biggest issue with alchemy techniques most describe. At one point or another the body is always left behind. It is never brought to a point of becoming a dissolved solute.
    The body is the solute never fully dissolved. Right or wrong this aspect bothers me. Haha.
    You can see it the other way round and be glad that there is something left behind. Most texts mention something pure, central, uncorruptable and corporal. Others remember to not forget the end when you want to begin. Again others would be happy to have something they can imbibe.

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